Jots and Thoughts: Split Rock

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Split Rock

Shoshone, Arapaho, Crow and Sioux Indians occupied this pleasant valley long before the Oregon Trail, which changed their cultures and life styles forever. This led to tragic warfare and the eventual loss of country they had called their own.

Split Rock Relay Station, a crude log structure with a pole corral, was built at the base of the mass of rocks on the south side of the Sweetwater River. It was used by both the Pony Express and the Overland Stage and until the early 1940s was a U.S. Post office.

Pony Express lore tells that William "Buffalo Bill' Cody, at age 14, exchanged horses at Split Rock Station on a record ride from Red Buttes Station to Rocky Ridge Station and back. Due to another rider's untimely death, Cody was forced to do an extra leg to his normal relay and eventually covered a total distance of 322 miles in 21 hours and 40 minutes, using 21 horses in the process. The station was located at the base of these mountains.

Split Rock can be seen as a cleft in the top of the Rattlesnake Range. Originally called the Emigrant Road, the Oregon Trail was the main route of westward expansion from 1812 to 1869. An estimated 500,000 people journeyed past here in search of new lands and new lives in the West.

Because of its unique shape, Split Rock was a well known trail landmark and navigation aid. Emigrants were guided by the rock for an entire day’s travel from the east. It remained in view behind them for another two days. From Split Rock, it was about six days to South Pass, the gateway to the Great Salt Lake Valley, California’s gold fields and the Pacific Northwest.

Emigrants on the Oregon and the Mormon Pioneer Trails coming from Devil’s Gate, 12 miles east, often camped below this point on the Sweetwater River where good grass and water were available for stock. West of here, ruts carved in the rocks by iron wheeled wagons are still visible. Generally, Mormon emigrants tried to stay on the opposite side of the river from the main trail to avoid confrontations with others also heading West.

In 1844, James Clyman recorded this in his journal about this spot.“(August) 17. Smokey But the sun rose over the Eastern Mountains in its usual majesty. Some recent Signs of a war party of Indians ware discovered yestarddy which caused some uneasiness…roled up the Steam on the South side…the most rugged bare granite rocks lay along the North side close to the water…saw some fine herds of Ibex or wild sheep some of which were taken and found to be very fine eating…This region seems to be the rufuses of the world thrown up in the utmost confusion.”

Joe decided to climb to the top of the rocks to get a better look at the surrounding area.

Going up!...